An eight-week growing course

From bare soil to baskets of home-grown tomatoes

Plan your beds on a grid, sow greens and roots without endless thinning, and grow tomatoes from seed to stake, with mulch and organic sprays keeping blight off the leaves.

See the lessons →
A basket of fresh vegetables by a brick wall
  • Map every bed on a grid
  • Mulch stops soil splashing up
  • Spray at dusk, not midday
  • Pick tomatoes at the breaker stage

Sound familiar?

A garden that looks busy and gives you very little

Water drops on a tomato plant
Wet leaves are where splashback disease starts.

  1. Your tomatoes get blight by midsummer

    The lower leaves spot, yellow and die from the bottom up, and the plant never gets back its strong first weeks.

  2. Half your seed never comes up

    Or it all comes up at once, crowded together, and you spend an evening pulling out seedlings you paid for.

  3. The beds are full but the basket isn't

    Plants shade each other out and fight over water, so a crowded bed gives you a few handfuls.

Raised garden beds with labelled plants

Every bed labelled

Plan first

Every square foot, on a grid

Map your beds on a scaled grid that accounts for mature spread, sun direction and root depth. You have a floorplan before a single seed goes in.

Straw mulch around tomato plants

Straw, a few inches deep

Protect

A layer of straw against blight

Rain bounces soil-borne spores onto the lower leaves. The right mulch at the right depth stops the splash, holds moisture and keeps early blight away.

Tomatoes harvested at the breaker stage

Harvest

Pick at first blush, ripen indoors

Once a tomato reaches the breaker stage, its sugars and acids are already locked in. You learn why picking then loses nothing in flavour.

See every lesson
  • Seed to stake
  • Organic sprays only
  • Raised beds or containers
  • Greens, roots and tomatoes
  • Seed to stake
  • Organic sprays only
  • Raised beds or containers
  • Greens, roots and tomatoes

By harvest time

What you will have grown

  • Tomatoes you grew from seed

    Heavy trusses from vines you trench-planted, pruned to a leader and trained up a trellis you built.

  • Greens and roots that come up evenly

    Direct-sown at the right depth and spacing, so you stop wasting seed and skip the hours of thinning.

  • Leaves that stay clean

    Mulch, deep watering and dusk-applied organic sprays keep splashback and fungal disease off the plants.

The lessons

Four modules, from bed to basket

  1. 01

    Natural Pest Defense and Disease Prevention

    Keep pests and blight off your plants with organic sprays, mulch and deep watering.

  2. 02

    Tomato Growing from Seed to Stake

    Choose your varieties, plant deep and train every vine up a support that holds.

  3. 03

    Watering Routines, Feeding, and Peak Harvest

    Spot problems early, feed through fruit set and store what you pick so it lasts.

  4. 04

    High-Yield Vegetables and Companion Groupings

    Lay your beds out on a grid and sow greens and roots straight into the soil.

4 modules

“

You will build a visual floorplan that eliminates resource competition and maximizes production in every square foot.

”

From the lesson · Designing Your Garden Bed Layout Grid

Read a sample

A page from the course

Lesson 01 · Natural Pest Defense and Disease Prevention

Organic Sprays: Horticultural Oils, Bacillus Thuringiensis, and Potassium Bicarbonate

Bacillus Thuringiensis (Bt) for Leaf-Chewing Caterpillars Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki (Bt-k) is a naturally occurring soil bacterium that produces crystal proteins toxic specifically to the larvae of moths and butterflies. When a caterpillar ingests foliage coated with Bt, the alkaline environment of its digestive tract activates the endotoxin, paralyzing the gut within hours and causing death within two to three days.

Who it's for

Is this the right course for you?

This is for you if…

  • You have a patch of ground, a raised bed or room for large containers.

  • You want tomatoes, salad greens and root crops from your own garden.

  • You would rather use organic sprays than synthetic chemicals.

  • You like knowing exact depths, spacings and dilution rates.

This is not for you if…

  • You want an ornamental flower garden.

  • You are looking for hydroponics or indoor growing.

  • You can't get outside to water and check plants each week.

Enrol

One price, the whole course

Every module, from your bed layout grid to storing the harvest.

Full course

$197one-time

For home growers who want a productive vegetable garden this season.

  • Bed layout grid and direct sowing
  • Tomatoes from seed to stake
  • Organic sprays with exact dilution rates
  • Mulching and drip irrigation setup
  • Feeding, diagnosis and harvest storage

Before you enrol

Do I need a big garden?

No. The course covers in-ground beds, raised beds and large containers, and the bed grid helps you get the most from a small space.

Do I have to use chemical sprays?

No. The sprays taught are horticultural oils, Bacillus thuringiensis and potassium bicarbonate, with dilution rates and when to apply them.

How long does it take?

The course is built around eight weeks, taking you from an empty patch to harvesting greens, root crops and tomatoes.

What do I get when I enrol?

All four modules: bed layout and sowing, tomatoes from seed to stake, natural pest and disease defence, and feeding through to harvest and storage.

Hands planting seedlings in garden soil

Plant this season's garden properly

$197 for the full course, from your first bed grid to storing what you pick.

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